A necklace is a jewelry piece that lies around the neck and décolletage. Length, material, and style determine the occasion. From discreet everyday to dramatic formal necklaces — the range is unlimited.
History & tradition
Necklaces are among the oldest jewelry pieces — specimens thousands of years old have been found made of bone, shells, stones, and metals. In ancient Egypt, necklaces symbolized divine status and protection; pharaohs wore them as part of ritual clothing.
Renaissance and chains: Metal chains were extremely popular in the Renaissance (15th–16th century) and Victorian era (19th century). At that time, a jeweler forged chains by hand — each link individually shaped, joined to the next, and soldered. This was exceptionally labor-intensive; today most chains are machine-made.
Pearl necklace: The cultured pearl strand is, according to GIA, one of the most important classic jewelry pieces. When Mikimoto Kōkichi developed pearl cultivation in 1893, the pearl necklace became more accessible. Previously, pearl necklaces were affordable only to the wealthiest — natural pearls were rare and expensive.
Tiffany "Diamonds by the Yard" (1974): Elsa Peretti designed for Tiffany & Co. a necklace that carried diamonds as floating points on a thin gold chain without a special pendant — a revolution in modern jewelry. The station necklace with smaller stones at equal intervals became a modern classic.
Details & variations
Necklace lengths (international standard measurements):
- Choker: 14–16 in (35–40 cm) — close to neck; ideal for V-neck and décolleté
- Princess: 17–20 in (43–50 cm) — classic length; versatile for all necklines
- Matinee: 20–24 in (50–60 cm) — reaches or slightly below décolleté; business wear
- Opera: 28–36 in (70–90 cm) — to the waist; dramatic and elegant; evening look
- Rope: 36+ in (90+ cm) — to mid-abdomen or lower; wearable wrapped multiple times
Tennis necklace: Continuous line of matching diamonds or colored stones, closed with a clasp. Name originated in 1987: tennis player Chris Evert lost her diamond bracelet during a final match and requested a pause. The "tennis necklace" is its necklace equivalent.
Bib necklace: Multi-strand necklace covering part of the chest. Common in ancient Egypt and prehistory. Today it is a statement piece.
Collar: Sits high around the neck, covers the collarbone. Often rigid (gold or silver plate) or multi-strand.
Y-necklace (lariat): Forms a "Y" or teardrop — one portion hangs downward. Emphasizes neck length.
Riviera necklace: Row of stones graduating from center outward — center stone is largest.
Materials & styles
Chain types by material: Chains are typically made of 14k or 18k gold (yellow, white, rose), platinum, or silver. 14k gold is more durable for everyday chains; 18k is recommended for special pieces where color is the priority.
Cultured pearl strands (per GIA):
- Akoya pearls: Classic cream-white color, Japanese origin. Diameter 5–11 mm. High luster. The standard "white pearl necklace."
- Tahitian pearls: Naturally dark (gray-green, bronze, purple hues). Diameter 8–14 mm. Exotic, dramatic appearance.
- South Sea pearls: The largest cultured pearls — diameter 10–20 mm. Golden-white color. Rare and expensive; from Australia, Philippines, Indonesia.
- Freshwater: Chinese origin. Wide range of colors and shapes. Affordable.
Bail type: The bail is the metal loop attaching a pendant to a chain. A slide pendant attaches directly to the chain without a bail. Bail quality is key to pendant security.
Care & maintenance
Chains: Thin chains are subject to metal fatigue at link joining points. Recommended: regular inspection of the clasp and links that appear fatigued. Omega and box chains are more rigid and require replacement of the entire segment when broken — they are not easily repaired.
Pearl necklaces: Pearls are soft (2.5–4.5 Mohs) and chemically sensitive. GIA recommends:
- Last to wear, first to clean — pearl strands should be put on last when dressing (hairspray, perfume, cosmetics attack the pearl surface).
- Store separately from other jewelry (harder stones scratch pearls).
- Wipe with a soft damp cloth after each wear — sweat and acids dissolve the nacreous layer.
- Pearl strands should be knotted (a knot between each pearl) — so in case of breakage only one pearl is lost rather than all of them.
Clasps: Periodic clasp inspection is recommended for all necklaces. Lobster claw and box clasp are among the more reliable; spring ring is less reliable for heavy pieces.
Did you know
Rope chain: A rope chain consists of interlocked segments that give the appearance of braiding (like rope). It offers an opulent, rich look especially in larger thicknesses. The links can be hollow (lighter) or solid.
Figaro chain: A typical figaro chain has a pattern of three short links and one longer link — this rhythm is a recognizable visual element. It originates from Italy (the name Figaro is a nod to opera!).
Omega chain: Built from tightly joined diagonal segments — from a distance it looks like a solid metal plate. Nicely follows the shape of the neck. Popular for heavier pendants.
Tennis necklace (1987): Chris Evert lost her diamond bracelet during a US Open final and stopped the match to find it. The jewelry became the "tennis bracelet" — its necklace version is the "tennis necklace." The continuous line of matching diamonds became one of the status symbols in jewelry.
Enhancer: A removable pendant that attaches to a pearl necklace and transforms it — from a classic pearl strand into a modern pendant piece. Practical for those who have one necklace and wear it in different styles.