A chain is a series of connected metal links, which can also be balls or disks. Worn around the neck, a chain is one type of necklace, and it can carry a pendant. Chains are also used to make bracelets. The link pattern determines how a chain looks, how it drapes, and how strong it is. This page covers the types of chains by link pattern, which ones suit a pendant, what to consider when choosing one, and how to care for chains, followed by some history. We will help you choose a chain to suit your pendant and you, in gold or platinum.
Types of chains
Cable
The most common chain: round or oval links, each set at right angles to the next.
Curb and figaro
In a curb chain, oval links are twisted and flattened so the chain lies flat; it’s strong yet flexible and usually easy to repair. The figaro, a variation on the curb, usually has three short links between each pair of long ones.
Rope
Interlocking links resemble a woven rope. The chain has a rich look, especially in wider sizes, and its links can be solid or hollow.
Box
Square links look like a row of tiny boxes. The chain is sturdy and well suited to pendants.
Snake
A smooth, round chain of tightly joined, slightly curved plates that resembles snakeskin.
Singapore
A double curb chain that is lightly compressed and twisted into a spiral.
Omega
At first glance it looks like a hoop of solid metal, but up close you can see tightly joined diagonal segments that let it flex and follow the shape of the neck.
Herringbone
A flat chain of slanted links arranged in a herringbone pattern. It lies flat and drapes smoothly.
Chains for pendants
The width and thickness of a chain should suit the pendant and its bail. A chain that is too fine for a heavy pendant wears or stretches faster, and one that is too thick may not fit through the bail.
The best chains for a pendant are sturdy ones that let the bail slide freely, such as cable, box, and curb; a snake chain also works for a lighter pendant. Herringbone and omega chains look best on their own, as a heavier pendant can bend them.
Lengths
Chains come in standard lengths of 40, 45, 50, 60, 75, and 90 cm (16, 18, 20, 24, 30, and 36 inches). Where a necklace of each length sits is described in the Lengths section of the Necklaces page.
Men wear chains too, with or without a pendant. They usually choose somewhat longer and wider chains, often 50–60 cm (20–24 in); curb and figaro chains are especially popular.
What to consider
Chain links can be solid or hollow. Hollow links are lighter for the same size, so they cost less, but they are generally less durable; a hollow rope chain, for example, is hard to repair.
Chains usually close with a lobster clasp; fine chains often have a smaller round spring-ring clasp. For all clasp types, see the Clasps and Safety Catches card.
Care
Store chains separately, ideally each in its own compartment or pouch, so they don’t tangle, twist, or scratch. Snake, omega, and herringbone chains are made of tightly joined or flat links, so a sharp bend can leave a kink that is hard or impossible to remove; store them straight, flat, or hanging. At the annual inspection, we check the clasp.
History
Neck chains were especially popular in the Renaissance and Victorian eras. Early chains were made by hand: each link had to be shaped individually, attached to the next, and soldered shut, which made the work slow and expensive. Most chains today are machine-made, although some designers still make chains by hand.
How we work
We choose a chain to suit the pendant, you, and how you will wear it. We can also shorten or lengthen a chain you already own and replace its clasp with a new or more secure one.